The year 2023 brings a new Type XX, a new momentum, a new generation and a completely new caliber. To meet all needs, two versions are released this time: one military INSPIRED and another based on the best civilian models. Looking back to the emblematic models of the first generation, Breguet has given these watches a contemporary, dynamic and technological spirit.
When creating the new Type XX, it was natural for Breguet to draw on the brand's inexhaustible heritage. In this context, it is worth remembering that at the beginning of the 1950s, Breguet was able to meet the requirements of the French Air Force, which was looking for a robust wrist chronograph with some well-defined characteristics.
For pilots, and aircrew members more generally, keeping track of time on board – that is, recording time references in an environment characterized by intense activity and stress – is vital. Operations such as measuring the total flight time or that of partial flights, checking fuel consumption, orienting and performing maneuvers required instruments that over the years have been made increasingly accurate and easier to use by watchmakers: first on-board chronographs and soon afterwards also chronographs for the wrist.
Research from the company archives shows that from the 1930s onwards numerous 'special' products were introduced, i.e. products tailored to the special requirements of aviation. These highly technical time instruments were supplied to both military aviation and the newly founded French national airline Air France.
The supply of watches for aircraft instrument panels took off from the early 1950s and was one of Breguet's recognized specialties for 30 years. The most widespread models were the Type 11, 11/1 and 12, which were found on the instrument panels of numerous aircraft, including most notably the unforgettable supersonic Concorde.
In addition to the chronograph on the instrument panel, a second chronograph turned out to be necessary, on the pilot's wrist – and not just any random model. If one became unusable, the other would take over. This was the whole point of the period instruments in which Breguet would become a specialist, specifically the legendary Type XX.
TYPE 20 CHRONOGRAPHE 2057
The military heritage
This timepiece is inspired by the 1100 examples delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959, and whose name was displayed in Arabic numerals as Type 20. This is in contrast to all other models, including that of the Aéronautique Navale, whose name Type XX was written in Roman numerals. The black dial has been modernized, but remains true to the identity of the Type 20. The Arabic numerals and the triangle on the glass edge are luminous and have a mint green tint, as do all the hands. The 30-minute totalizer at 3 o'clock is now larger than the 60-second totalizer at 9 o'clock, while a date window has been added between 4 and 5 o'clock.
The 42 mm steel case features a non-graduated but fluted bi-directional glass edge, just like the models supplied to the military air force in the past. The pear-shaped crown, as in the beginning, is adjustable in three positions: 1 neutral, 2 date correction, 3 time setting. The push button at 2 o'clock is used to activate the chronograph and the push button at 4 o'clock is for the “flyback” function. The first is used to start and stop the stopwatch, the second is used to reset the chronograph and minute totalizer.
TYPE XX CHRONOGRAPHE 2067
The line of the 'civilian' versions
This second timepiece with its adventurous appearance is a direct descendant of the best civilian Type XX models from the 1950s and 1960s, and in particular a model from 1957 with individual number 2988. The dial of this civilian version is also black, but shows significant differences. First of all, the display: the 15-minute totalizer is at 3 o'clock, the 12-hour totalizer is at 6 o'clock and the second hand is at 9 o'clock. As with the military-inspired version, the totalizer is resized to make the dial both more dynamic and easier to read. The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the glass edge have an ivory-colored luminous coating. The date window is displayed between 4 and 5 o'clock.
The 42 mm steel case features a fluted bi-directional graduated glass edge. The classic straight crown can be adjusted to three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, 3) time setting. The push button at 2 o'clock starts and stops the chronograph functions, while the push button at 4 o'clock immediately resets and restarts the chronograph, based on the famous “flyback” principle.
These two new additions to the current Breguet collection are delivered in a havana-colored leather box reminiscent of an airplane wing. The chronograph is fitted with a calf leather strap, with a black NATO strap extra in the box. This way, owners can change depending on the mood of the day. from 45 to 60 degrees. Securing is done with a locking system. It takes just a few seconds to exchange a calfskin bracelet for another leather variant, while the black NATO strap is inserted between the two bars and guided under the case.
Introduction of the new caliber 728 and 7281
After four years of development at the Manufacture Breguet, the brand proudly presents the new self-winding caliber 728 for the civilian version and the caliber 7281 for the military version. This movement and its variant, which combine robustness and innovation, are protected by several patents and include all the features expected of a modern chronograph, such as a column wheel, vertical clutch, 5 Hz frequency and an innovative reset activation system . In addition to these elements, it also benefits from the latest technical innovations in the field of chronometry (precision time measurement). The coil, escapement and horns of the anchor are made of silicon. Silicon is not only resistant to corrosion and wear, but is also insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and increases the accuracy of the time instrument. In addition, this self-winding chronograph has a power reserve of 60 hours.
Both models are equipped with a “flyback” function. This function is a valuable asset for pilots: where previously three actions were required, now one action is enough. Thanks to the “flyback function”, evaluating different times and directions is particularly easy.
